PHA acids for sensitive skin: the K-beauty exfoliation revelation
by Dr. Sara Lindqvist ·
If glycolic acid leaves your skin red for a day and lactic acid still feels too aggressive, PHA is the answer the Korean beauty industry has been quietly perfecting since 2018. Same brightening, almost no irritation.
PHAs (polyhydroxy acids) are the third generation of exfoliating acids. AHAs work on the skin's surface (glycolic, lactic). BHAs go into the pore (salicylic).
PHAs do the same job as AHAs but the molecules are bigger, so they only work on the very topmost layer of dead cells — same brightening and texture improvement, almost no inflammatory response. The two main PHAs are gluconolactone and lactobionic acid. Gluconolactone is the gentler of the two, suited for the most sensitive skin and those who cannot tolerate AHAs at all.
Lactobionic adds a humectant effect (it actually pulls water in) making it ideal for combination dehydrated skin. The PHA winners on the market: COSRX PHA Moisture Renewal Power Cream (gentle daily), Neostrata Bionic Lotion (the original 8% gluconolactone formula, dermatologist favorite for thirty years), Naturium PHA Topical Acid 12% (US drugstore price, surprisingly effective). Use PHA every other night for two weeks, then nightly if tolerated.
Compatible with everything — vitamin C, retinoids, niacinamide — unlike AHA which fights with most actives. The trade-off: results take six to eight weeks instead of three for AHA. Worth it if your skin reacts to anything stronger.
